To do this loosen the three slot head screws in the top of the turret (you may have to rotate the focus knob to do this but there is just enough clearance under it to make this possible. Once zerod at the chosen distance you will need to rezero the turret. The real pain is that there are no clicks and very little movement is required (for example on my scope the distance between the 100m mark and the 300m mark is exactly the elevation needed to move the shot form 100yds to 300yds with the HPS ammo I use.
If the shot is low, loosen the brass (rear) locking screw and adjust clockwise. The prcoess is as per any other zero but (on my scope) I use 100m as the calibrations are marked out to 800m in 100m increments. this was frequently scored by the user to note zero or BDC for their chosen distances/ammo.Ģ) The knurled brass screw at the rear of the turret - this is the lock for the elevation turret - very simple operation.tighten to lock, loosen to adjust.ģ) On the top of the turret there are three screws - these can be loosened (BUT NOT REMOVED) to disconnect the elevation mechanism from the reticle for rezeroing the turret.Ĥ) The painted black rotating adjuster on the top of the turret is for +/- adjusting the reticule focus. The uncalibrated version was more often associated with the civilian /commercial scopes and the ring was made of brass. On my scope I have replaced the original unmarked version with a calibrated military version. If you look at the pic above you will see:ġ)The knurled steel elevation (or azimuth as the manual translation calls it) ring. Windage adjustment is not possible - this has to be done on the SSR mount/base. There are four main ways to adjust various parts of the elevation on the ZF39.
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